24 July 2000
On arrival at Trang we were approached by Samran looking for business as a tour guide, hoping eventually to open a Tour Office to extol the new found attractions of the newly opened up coastal area around Trang. We had explored the area several years earlier and had seen the possibilities but at that time the area was unknown and without custom. Since clearly I was guide enough and had a guest house booked in Krabi somewhat to the north he instead offered to take us to Krabi in his pickup truck for 1000B if I would first buy the petrol.
The children sat in the cramped rear seat of the air conditioned cab, I sat beside driver Samran but the rest had to rough it in the back, a bumpy ride with very hot sun overhead no doubt made it their first taste of travelling like backpackers. It was an unexpectedly long journey lasting 90 minutes, but Samran and I got on exceedingly well with him honing his already good English and helping me with my Linguaphone Thai. The kids were full of beans especially when Thai pop songs were played on the cassette with Joe strumming his imaginary guitar.
We were welcomed at the Bai Fern GH where I had made the last of our advance bookings, the one mistake I made in planning this trip. Joan and I had been very comfortable one of several front rooms last November but they were now unavailable being on extended off season rent. The rooms we had in the rear had not been in regular use due to the season didn't have hot water or air conditioning, there was no where to hang clothes and not great security but the downside was a constant smell from the sewers which was worse in some rooms than ours. I should have decided to move to better accommodation after the first night but didn't being anxious not to break my word (booking) to the very pleasant owner and perhaps over anxious to show backpackers taking the rough with the smooth. My record shows after a couple of nights the others seemed content, continual flushing having reduced the smell of the sewers.
I found large black scorpions in the street nearby just under a nut tree and advised the children to wear sandals. A bite can be serious and children might need to go to hospital for treatment, but the pharmacist says simply to treat with antihistamine cream and tablets. Gary was already taking antihistamine tablets 4 times/day because of a severe reaction including joint pains to mosquito bites.
After that first lunchtime after arrival the owners husband on request drove us to the Ao Nang beach. When we first visited the south in January 1992 this beautiful beach was deserted except for a few sun bathing/swimming couples and a pineapple seller who pealed and sold complete fruit to order. There was some housing and a shop but nothing directly behind the beach, what a contrast the beach was now backed by small tourist hotels.
We walked along the beach to the new restaurant at the far end. I went straight in for a swim and the others followed but before long Rachel ran out screaming having been bitten by a jelly fish. There were big painful wields which Judy treated with anti histamine cream but the restaurant keeper simply with vinegar. He told us jelly fish were a problem in summer time and particularly a now at low tide. Because of the season there was no food available at the cafe. By night time only a few bite marks remained, but what terrible luck to have this as an introduction to the wonderful beaches and warm seas of southern Thailand.
Krabi featured one especially good indoor restaurant well known to us from our two earlier visits just across from the ferry boat pier the Kotung. Everyone was delighted with the food, at least ten different plates including Tom Yang Kung, Spicy Seafood Salads, Chicken and Cashew nuts, Green Curry, Rice, and Chips for the children, all for 1000B half of which went on six large bottles of beer.
The good times were back with a bang.
Joe complained that 'Hazel is pulling up my carpet' meaning his table mat.
The Girls were singing 'Maya, Maya l'Abbeille, Winnie Winnie l'Oursan, attention au bout de toi de l'abbeille, te piquera, allez un, allez deux, allez trois, pique!'
25 July Because our GH was unable to provide us with breakfast we went to the nearby Tower GH in who offered either Continental or Full English menus including egg, bacon and sausage (a sign of the times as tourism grips). The Thai who had accompanied us last night to the restaurant hoping for a commission arranged for a boat to take us to Chicken Island, Poda, and Prang Na (Raleigh beach) hoping to get an early start it was 1am before we had finished breakfast.
The sea was very rough everyone aboard was drenched by spray during the one hour crossing and we were all worried at times by the lack of free-board so the route was modified somewhat to two small islands joined by a sand bar.
Beautiful green sea, golden sands, lovely coloured fish for snorkelling luckily they had all brought plastic masks and flippers. The sun was so hot that by 2pm everyone was sufficiently burned in spite of frequent addition of sun screen cream.
Everyone was overwhelmed by the beauty of the tropical beauty.
The return journey was even more treacherous as we surfed the waves, and all but swamped twice as the boat rolled in the bigger ones. The driver was as relieved as we were on getting back to the calm of the estuary and the Raleigh Bay which is mostly approached by sea.
We ate excellent multiple dish style again on the front before returning to Krabi about 5pm. Later that evening we ate again at the Kotung restaurant itself in Krabi with even more dishes for 1145B. Rachel ate Chicken and Noodles and the other children ate Charcoal grilled Fish and Chips.
26 July A lie in to give everyone a good rest and then planned for an elephant ride, 800B per adult and 400B per child. Joan and I merely watched for uncomfortable rides on Elephant or Camel had no attraction for us since the novelty wore off. With Anne-Marie we looked after the children whilst the other three went shopping in the market returning with large bottles of water, fruit, biscuits and pineapple buns.
The a/c minibus picked us up at 1:25pm and went along the road to Ao Leuk before turning to the coast through an area of limestone outcrops. There were two elephants which the children enjoyed feeding with whole bunches of green bananas which they devoured whole along with the fruit only of whole pineapples leaving the husk as a brush to clean their skin. They had an enormous appetite for fruit and for the fleshy reed plants in the fields. Whilst walking over loose red sandstone they picked it up with their trunks and then sand blasted their underneath's.
For the first trip each family had one elephant but it was obviously a little cramped with four up. I complained that we had had only 20 minute rides rather than the 60 mins advertised, he offered another ride but there were no takers! We went for a short trek in the limestone outcrops but the young adults were taken on a much longer trek. When they returned the children asked for another ride this time Jim and Gary stayed behind to leave extra space and a much better experience.
Finally the kids again reveled in feeding the elephants and we took photos, the man wanted to get in the shots obviously realising the sales advertisement in being photographed with our young children especially Joe the blond haired blue eyed favorite. I wrote a day the kids won't forget - but Joe did.
Back to the Kotung restaurant and we ordered more for 1300B, this time more than was wanted. I also took them to the market in town and to the Muslim stalls with particularly 'hot' food. There was a fine selection, curries of many differing kinds, sea foods, winkles, Gary has a particular love of the hot spicy flavour of such food and so obviously wants to eat there.
In addition we looked around the night market on the other pier side of the road, normally with such street food markets each stall specialises in one dish, we tried a selection with the stall holders fondling Gary's stomach. At this time of year they were short of custom. There was also a much larger stall selling a big range of dishes that I didn't remember from the previous November, we noted that they were heating the pots nightly in order to keep them fresh. The coffee shop on the pavement was however absolutely full and tempting but we decided to avoid more agro by taking the children home.
27 July Breakfast at our GH Bai Fern
Then hiring a song thaew to Hat Nopparathara on an overcast day following the second successive night of heavy rain.
Getting off the boat across the river we met an East German with his son who recommended the Emerald Court restaurant where they were staying as sole residents. There I got talking to his wife also an East German from Leipzig where she was the Head of Protocol in City Hall, which entailed making arrangements for visiting dignitaries. They had been to Phuket and Long Beach on Phi Phi which unlike most of Phi Phi was really clean and recommended Paradise Resort Bungalows right on the beach at 350B/night. She also recommended Bali, which they had cycled around, but had found the sea at Kuta too rough for children - though attractive to surfers. They had also been to Toba on Sumatra and Jo Jakarta (city of kings) on Java and Lombok. She also recommended Vietnam. The sort of helpful advice normally passed between independent travellers. After retirement we toured Sumatra, Bali and Lombok.
Our girls were collecting shells on the beach and dug out a crab from its hole in the sand only to see it disappear down another nearby.
We had an excellent lunch at the Emerald, not cheap at 935B without beer. The cook said he gave hour long lessons when he had time often aimed at cooking a clients favorite dishes for their next meal. He showed us two recommended books 'Authentic Thai Food' and 'Cooking Thai Food in American Kitchens' which referred to Cardoman as Candle Nut. I remember Jim and Gary, both fond of cooking, being particularly interested.
For dinner we returned to the Muslim restaurant on the market, but although cheap at 25B/plate it was deemed a failure being far too hot for most and not at all refined. To finish off we had pancakes on the estuary side street market, after leaving I remembered leaving behind my day sack with Joan's money belt and my camera. The heart pounded on realisation but it was still on the seat when I returned.
28 July Another cloudy day further disorganised by deciding to shop independently, though Alice and Rachel ended up with pretty Thai wrap around skirts. It was 2pm before we all met up and hired a boat to Rai Leh (Raleigh Beach) as planned, squabbles about boats and lifejackets and a further dispute on return about price, eventually 140B for each adult but the children went free all as initially agreed. Unlike high season in November there were no boats pulled up to shore selling food. Where was the sun? All that was needed to complete a spectacle of the cliffs.
We decided to move on to Ko Phi Phi tomorrow rather than wait or the festival which would soon open on spare ground close to the GH and was expected to attract shop stalls from all over Thailand. So we bought tickets for six adults, as with the small boat and buses children went free. The GH bill for ten, five nights, 3 breakfasts and drinks was just 6200B.
Since Gary had to fly back early for work we booked him a train ticket locally from Trang to Bangkok for 3 August, the price was identical to that from the stations, receipt was given on paying and the actual ticket was available a few hours later.
One final evening meal at the Kotung for another fabulous meal this time featuring giant prawns at 700B/kg. On leaving I gave the bent old Chinese man who spoke good English and always took our orders, a 500B tip for himself, especially the kitchen staff and the pleasant young waitresses.
On arrival at Trang we were approached by Samran looking for business as a tour guide, hoping eventually to open a Tour Office to extol the new found attractions of the newly opened up coastal area around Trang. We had explored the area several years earlier and had seen the possibilities but at that time the area was unknown and without custom. Since clearly I was guide enough and had a guest house booked in Krabi somewhat to the north he instead offered to take us to Krabi in his pickup truck for 1000B if I would first buy the petrol.
The children sat in the cramped rear seat of the air conditioned cab, I sat beside driver Samran but the rest had to rough it in the back, a bumpy ride with very hot sun overhead no doubt made it their first taste of travelling like backpackers. It was an unexpectedly long journey lasting 90 minutes, but Samran and I got on exceedingly well with him honing his already good English and helping me with my Linguaphone Thai. The kids were full of beans especially when Thai pop songs were played on the cassette with Joe strumming his imaginary guitar.
We were welcomed at the Bai Fern GH where I had made the last of our advance bookings, the one mistake I made in planning this trip. Joan and I had been very comfortable one of several front rooms last November but they were now unavailable being on extended off season rent. The rooms we had in the rear had not been in regular use due to the season didn't have hot water or air conditioning, there was no where to hang clothes and not great security but the downside was a constant smell from the sewers which was worse in some rooms than ours. I should have decided to move to better accommodation after the first night but didn't being anxious not to break my word (booking) to the very pleasant owner and perhaps over anxious to show backpackers taking the rough with the smooth. My record shows after a couple of nights the others seemed content, continual flushing having reduced the smell of the sewers.
I found large black scorpions in the street nearby just under a nut tree and advised the children to wear sandals. A bite can be serious and children might need to go to hospital for treatment, but the pharmacist says simply to treat with antihistamine cream and tablets. Gary was already taking antihistamine tablets 4 times/day because of a severe reaction including joint pains to mosquito bites.
After that first lunchtime after arrival the owners husband on request drove us to the Ao Nang beach. When we first visited the south in January 1992 this beautiful beach was deserted except for a few sun bathing/swimming couples and a pineapple seller who pealed and sold complete fruit to order. There was some housing and a shop but nothing directly behind the beach, what a contrast the beach was now backed by small tourist hotels.
We walked along the beach to the new restaurant at the far end. I went straight in for a swim and the others followed but before long Rachel ran out screaming having been bitten by a jelly fish. There were big painful wields which Judy treated with anti histamine cream but the restaurant keeper simply with vinegar. He told us jelly fish were a problem in summer time and particularly a now at low tide. Because of the season there was no food available at the cafe. By night time only a few bite marks remained, but what terrible luck to have this as an introduction to the wonderful beaches and warm seas of southern Thailand.
Krabi featured one especially good indoor restaurant well known to us from our two earlier visits just across from the ferry boat pier the Kotung. Everyone was delighted with the food, at least ten different plates including Tom Yang Kung, Spicy Seafood Salads, Chicken and Cashew nuts, Green Curry, Rice, and Chips for the children, all for 1000B half of which went on six large bottles of beer.
The good times were back with a bang.
Joe complained that 'Hazel is pulling up my carpet' meaning his table mat.
The Girls were singing 'Maya, Maya l'Abbeille, Winnie Winnie l'Oursan, attention au bout de toi de l'abbeille, te piquera, allez un, allez deux, allez trois, pique!'
25 July Because our GH was unable to provide us with breakfast we went to the nearby Tower GH in who offered either Continental or Full English menus including egg, bacon and sausage (a sign of the times as tourism grips). The Thai who had accompanied us last night to the restaurant hoping for a commission arranged for a boat to take us to Chicken Island, Poda, and Prang Na (Raleigh beach) hoping to get an early start it was 1am before we had finished breakfast.
The sea was very rough everyone aboard was drenched by spray during the one hour crossing and we were all worried at times by the lack of free-board so the route was modified somewhat to two small islands joined by a sand bar.
Beautiful green sea, golden sands, lovely coloured fish for snorkelling luckily they had all brought plastic masks and flippers. The sun was so hot that by 2pm everyone was sufficiently burned in spite of frequent addition of sun screen cream.
Everyone was overwhelmed by the beauty of the tropical beauty.
 |
| ALL ABOARD FOR RETURN |
 |
| FACES WORRIED by ROLLING SEA |
26 July A lie in to give everyone a good rest and then planned for an elephant ride, 800B per adult and 400B per child. Joan and I merely watched for uncomfortable rides on Elephant or Camel had no attraction for us since the novelty wore off. With Anne-Marie we looked after the children whilst the other three went shopping in the market returning with large bottles of water, fruit, biscuits and pineapple buns.
The a/c minibus picked us up at 1:25pm and went along the road to Ao Leuk before turning to the coast through an area of limestone outcrops. There were two elephants which the children enjoyed feeding with whole bunches of green bananas which they devoured whole along with the fruit only of whole pineapples leaving the husk as a brush to clean their skin. They had an enormous appetite for fruit and for the fleshy reed plants in the fields. Whilst walking over loose red sandstone they picked it up with their trunks and then sand blasted their underneath's.
Finally the kids again reveled in feeding the elephants and we took photos, the man wanted to get in the shots obviously realising the sales advertisement in being photographed with our young children especially Joe the blond haired blue eyed favorite. I wrote a day the kids won't forget - but Joe did.
Back to the Kotung restaurant and we ordered more for 1300B, this time more than was wanted. I also took them to the market in town and to the Muslim stalls with particularly 'hot' food. There was a fine selection, curries of many differing kinds, sea foods, winkles, Gary has a particular love of the hot spicy flavour of such food and so obviously wants to eat there.
In addition we looked around the night market on the other pier side of the road, normally with such street food markets each stall specialises in one dish, we tried a selection with the stall holders fondling Gary's stomach. At this time of year they were short of custom. There was also a much larger stall selling a big range of dishes that I didn't remember from the previous November, we noted that they were heating the pots nightly in order to keep them fresh. The coffee shop on the pavement was however absolutely full and tempting but we decided to avoid more agro by taking the children home.
27 July Breakfast at our GH Bai Fern
Then hiring a song thaew to Hat Nopparathara on an overcast day following the second successive night of heavy rain.
 |
| PORT at HAT NOPPARATHARA |
 |
| THE RIVER CROSSING |
Our girls were collecting shells on the beach and dug out a crab from its hole in the sand only to see it disappear down another nearby.
We had an excellent lunch at the Emerald, not cheap at 935B without beer. The cook said he gave hour long lessons when he had time often aimed at cooking a clients favorite dishes for their next meal. He showed us two recommended books 'Authentic Thai Food' and 'Cooking Thai Food in American Kitchens' which referred to Cardoman as Candle Nut. I remember Jim and Gary, both fond of cooking, being particularly interested.
 |
| Alice and Rachel lazing at the EMERALD RESORT |
28 July Another cloudy day further disorganised by deciding to shop independently, though Alice and Rachel ended up with pretty Thai wrap around skirts. It was 2pm before we all met up and hired a boat to Rai Leh (Raleigh Beach) as planned, squabbles about boats and lifejackets and a further dispute on return about price, eventually 140B for each adult but the children went free all as initially agreed. Unlike high season in November there were no boats pulled up to shore selling food. Where was the sun? All that was needed to complete a spectacle of the cliffs.
 |
| Hazel, Alice and Rachel (in their new Thai Skirts) |
 |
| RALEIGH BEACH |
Since Gary had to fly back early for work we booked him a train ticket locally from Trang to Bangkok for 3 August, the price was identical to that from the stations, receipt was given on paying and the actual ticket was available a few hours later.
One final evening meal at the Kotung for another fabulous meal this time featuring giant prawns at 700B/kg. On leaving I gave the bent old Chinese man who spoke good English and always took our orders, a 500B tip for himself, especially the kitchen staff and the pleasant young waitresses.
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