6 Aug Left PHI PHI by ferry for KRABI
Arrived to calls of:-
'Raleigh Raleigh'
'Going where today'?
'Ticket already'?
'Ao Nang Beach'
'Have bungalow already'?
Checked email and found reply from Nok to say that Sao was now working at Songkla Post Office but didn't have time to reply as we were already late for the minibus I had ordered.
TRANSFER by MINIBUS to PHATTALUNG
I the event the minibus was an hour late at 12:30 but he drove us via Trang to Phattalung by 14:40 where we checked into the Thai Hotel, 350B with air con. The journey was largely through vast rubber plantations except for a short section over the central mountain spine where there was a lovely variegated forest. Some individually designed residences had replaced both the traditional type of wooden house and the concrete hutches which had followed. There is obviously still plenty of money in rubber if less than before. Dual carriageways were being constructed and concrete bridges were replacing wooden ones.
Following the pattern of two previous visits we went to eat at Rean Achaan Cock. Excellent table full of food dishes largely chosen from what was best and easily available by the manageress including Salad Vermilan, excellent mixture of chicken pieces, crystallised seaweed on spicy salad, duck in gravy, sweet and sour fish.
Dining at the same time were two younger backpackers who were amazed and delighted to see our family group and another two with a Thai girl. The manageress told me the first bus to Thaleh Noi was at 6 am which stopped at the Bangkok Bank. Through her I booked a second minibus to take us to Songkla for 700B at 14:00 that day.
7 Aug VISIT THALEH NOI
In fact we missed the bus but aimed for one an half hour later but before it came had hired a song thaew and were on the water for 7:30. In contrast to the cross country drive from the west coast this was more like traditional Thailand scenery of rice paddies with reeds being cultivated for the local basket weaving industry.
Thaleh Noi is such a magnificent sight from a hired manned boat in winter, for us one of Thailand's very best experiences, water flowers and a huge variety of water birds.
But it was desperately disappointing now with perhaps only 1% of the birds but we did see water buffalo which delighted the children. There were still plenty of pink water lilies and some white lotus blossom, Rachel showed me the blue tinge on their petals and the very distinctive stamens.
We were out on the water for
two whole hours for 300B. I think it was here that Anne-Marie took her
lovely photo of a woman weaving outside her own house.
TRANSFER by MINIBUS to SONGKLA also 7 Aug
Back at the hotel we all showered in the room we had been able to keep for our baggage. Two hour minibus ride to the Lake Inn Songkla where Joan showered again then went on a recki to locate the Post Office and the restaurant Raan Acchaan Tae. Also talked to the owner of the Amsterdam GH who was most helpful told us we could swim at BP's Samila Hotel, gave us a local news letter and suggested tomorrow's visits, she let rooms for 200B with shared bathroom.
When we got back the others were waiting so we went directly back to the restaurant for a truly excellent Chinese meal, lots of Koa Kapong (bass) in sweet and sour sauce, separate fried pieces, spicy seafood salad, chicken and cashew, stewed duck, tom Yang Kung all for 880B
8 Aug Meet up with SAO
Joan and I went to the Post Office for 8 pm in time to see workers arriving, but did not recognise Sao amongst them. While we waited I anxiously rehearsed my Thai, for it was important to be understood. We were amongst the first bunch of customers and had chosen the empty central desk. I would like to contact Sao who Nok had told me was working here, 'Khootoot, Khun ruuccak khun Sao, chun Wannaluk. Terpen Nok seuk sa', she did not know her but made left to make enquiries and in a few minutes she was back smiling to confirm Sao did work as a new intake in the back office. Soon after Sao, who speaks not a word of English, joined us at the desk nervously 'Khun ruucaak phom nay'?
Whereupon both our my reliefs the desk attendant, who I now know as Ooy offered to translate for us.
How lucky can you get! In her spare time Ooy taught ex-pats, eg BP employees, in the local petroleum industry Thai and in so doing had become fluent in English. Sao and Ooy plus a friend of Sao, Uray, from the same college, in Hat Yai, would join our party for dinner that night to further help with translation. Ooy insisted on the choice of restaurant because that was where she went with her students, and would make the booking. I had been thinking of impressing with our favourite Thai eating hole but was happy to agree, we were to meet at 16:30.
Before leaving the PO we went to the third floor for a good view of the boats courtesy of a manager who had kindly waved us into an office giving us access to the elevator.
I should explain that Thai' s are known by their nick name from shortly after birth, Nok according to my dictionary means 'bird or parrot', Ooy is an expression of pain used by females. Our longstanding Thai friend Pranee is known as Lek or 'little' a very common nickname.
Back at the hotel as requested they had ordered a song thaew to take us to Kao Seng and Ko Yoh, the island we first met Sao after being invited into her parent's house on simply passing on the street. We sent her a Christmas card which she showed to her friend Nok who replied in English and we have kept email contact with annually at least with Nok ever since.
At Kao Song village we saw boats, far less exceptional than those we expected to revisit from Pattini, but with a very warm welcome from the villagers who as usual made a special fuss of the children.
Then back to our Lake Inn hotel to get swimming gear and finally to the pool at the grander Samila Hotel. A lovely big pool with deep circular section joined to two smaller circular sections of medium depth suitable for Joe, finally an almost separate section for toddlers. We had excellent swims, the older children practiced diving but it was a problem to stop Joe jumping out of his depth. Gary's thoughtful response was to allow him to jump in to him providing he attempted to swim the five feet needed to get back to the side. This day he was not so much swimming as treading water with little forward motion. Hazel's swimming was improving fast.
At dinner at the farang (foreigners) restaurant chosen by Ooy was called Parl Ang Bar where they also offered excellent Thai food notably dry crab curry, spicy mango salad under Cotton fish, sweet and sour chicken and cashew, a coconut each by way of starter.
We learned that the girl students were taking a degree in Management and since they already had diplomas expected to get a BA in three years of Saturday only lessons. They were only at the PO for two months of work experience. Ooy was certain they would get jobs once they had degrees somewhere, if not the PO, depending on vacancies. Ooy was already a graduate with children of two and eight would like to go to Europe, especially France. Sao wanted to know how I found her and so I explained Nok's guidance.
The restaurant was obviously for farangs, the English lady who we had met at the Samila pool with her children was there with her husband and family, as was an old American Oil Rig Man who was now an on-shore manager. Clearly this was a restaurant aimed at foreign workers, not tourists. We left at 18:45 because it was nearly dark having really enjoyed the evening.
9 Aug Transfer by shared minibus to PATTANI
We were allocated seven seats for our party of nine and picked up a further two people on the outskirts of town.
By 12:00 we had checked into the My Garden hotel, un-booked as usual - finding accommodation for the group was no problem. We refused an offer from the hotel of renting a minibus for the day for 1200B which sounded way overpriced but hired a song thaew on the street for 400B.
Then a visit to the modern mosque and gardens built in the 1960's.
Next out to Hat Talo Kapo for the afternoon. All the boats were decorated this time but had obviously been used, not one however was as magnificent as the one I had photographed in Nov 99.
I talked to the fishermen, some fished for squid with large cages and some for fish with long nets about 2 metre deep. They told me there were three men to a boat who stayed at sea for 1 to 2 days though it obviously depended on how quickly they got a good catch.One they were keen to tell me was a Bangladeshi. They offered me a beautiful girl, quick, on hearing my wife was here, and marijuana.
We lunched at one of the cafes along the beach on Tom Yang Kung and Khaaw Pat Kung. All the children of a Thai family went swimming in the sea fully clothed and wearing goggles. Anne Marie would have enjoyed a swim but didn't think she should change into a swimming costume.
The song thaew driver was excellent and showed us the mosque and said the Abdul Khadi restaurant next door was a good place to eat. He took us to Thanon Rudu looking for Batic shops but they had all closed at 5pm. Finally he took us the long way round via the large park and the Songkla University campus. Having asked for 400B as originally requested he was delighted to get 500B.
The restaurant had a menu for the first time solely in Thai script but asked the waiter to read it out and managed to recognise some of the usuals Tom Yam Kung of course, Yam Thaleh (spicy sea food salad) Kai ma-muang (chicken and cashew).
10/11 Aug MEET UP WITH NOK in PATTANI
There was a note from Nok when we returned to the hotel that night, next morning she telephoned again as we were having breakfast and said she would come around at 9:30am. Breakfast had been American in style, fruit juice, two fried eggs - very tasty as usual, a small sausage, toast jam coffee/tea.
This was the first time we had met Nok face to face although we had frequently communicated by email, mainly as a go between with her school friend Sao who didn't know English. First impressions included surprise to find Nok petite, very friendly and very much at home with the children. When she arrived the kids were playing with a small animal between a squirrel and a hamster, a Kha Tae, which the porter kept on a gold chain in his desk drawer.
Nok hired a song thaew for the duration and first took us shopping for Batik at Thanon Rudee and the market but it was not too successful though just one shop had an attractive range of ready made shirts but they were too small for Jimmy and me.
First visit was to the mosque Matsayih Kreu-Se (dating from 1578), for we were now into the SE coastal region of Thailand which was predominately Muslim rather than Buddhist, and just north of the border with Malaya.
Nok showed the kids how to shake to find their lucky number and Nok read the associated paper note. For instance 'Joe would be successful in business' another 'Happy if they did it right'. She encouraged them to bang each of three overhead drums, bought them bundles of tapers to light then stick into three decorated bowls full of soil whilst making a wish which they were to tell no-one but if it became true meant they would return to this shrine.
Then to a Chinese shrine San Jao Leng Ju Kieng where Ko Niaw had been hanged.
10 August
Next to the park playground area which had an amazing selection of roundabouts which Jim said were similar to the styles appearing at festivals in France.
Finally to the university for lunch in their open air self service restaurant, about a dozen outlets for food, drinks, bakery where a meal cost only 15B. There was a Muslim restaurant nearby. Buddhists like Nok could eat at either but she said Muslim students didn't eat at ours for fear of eating pork.
On return to the hotel we paid the driver 400B and the hotel bill at 550B for not particularly effective air con rooms, beds too hard for Joan but everyone else was OK. Judy went with Nok to buy naam prik plaw paste which Nok described as an essential ingredient of Tom Yam Kung plus a sachet with recipe in English.
The minibus I had ordered to take us north to the major southern city of Hat Yai came at 2:30pm. So we said our goodbyes and thanks to Nok who had made our visit to Pattani so special. There was more road development and that from Songkla east to Hat Yai will soon be a dual carriageway.
The journey took just under two hours and then we set about finding the train. The only way to find the platform number is to ask at the Enquiry Desk or listen to the announcement of arrivals in Thai and English since it was not displayed anywhere. Confusingly on getting to our train 38 listed for platform 3 we found coaches 12-17 without sign of an engine or our coach 7. They were added to the train proper after its arrival, mystery solved once we realised coach 7 was part of the incoming train. We found our seats OK and soon re-organised so the kids could sit together. for the overnight journey back to Bangkok.
To begin with I sat opposite a pretty girl Auy and her Pekingese dog Lulu. She was service receptionist at a Mercedes Benz dealer on her may to spend four days with her mother in Bangkok. She lived with her father in Hat Yai and had no boyfriend phuan pluu chaay. She later moved to her correct seat but kept friends with the children.
By 7 pm no one had been round to enquire about food so Jim and I set off to look for a restaurant car, a small kitchen/restaurant car with a few tables, and the waiter came back to our carriage to take the order a reasonable meal about 100B per plate. In contrast to the journey South everyone slept soundly, our holiday must be doing us good!
Arrived to calls of:-
'Raleigh Raleigh'
'Going where today'?
'Ticket already'?
'Ao Nang Beach'
'Have bungalow already'?
Checked email and found reply from Nok to say that Sao was now working at Songkla Post Office but didn't have time to reply as we were already late for the minibus I had ordered.
TRANSFER by MINIBUS to PHATTALUNG
I the event the minibus was an hour late at 12:30 but he drove us via Trang to Phattalung by 14:40 where we checked into the Thai Hotel, 350B with air con. The journey was largely through vast rubber plantations except for a short section over the central mountain spine where there was a lovely variegated forest. Some individually designed residences had replaced both the traditional type of wooden house and the concrete hutches which had followed. There is obviously still plenty of money in rubber if less than before. Dual carriageways were being constructed and concrete bridges were replacing wooden ones.
Following the pattern of two previous visits we went to eat at Rean Achaan Cock. Excellent table full of food dishes largely chosen from what was best and easily available by the manageress including Salad Vermilan, excellent mixture of chicken pieces, crystallised seaweed on spicy salad, duck in gravy, sweet and sour fish.
Dining at the same time were two younger backpackers who were amazed and delighted to see our family group and another two with a Thai girl. The manageress told me the first bus to Thaleh Noi was at 6 am which stopped at the Bangkok Bank. Through her I booked a second minibus to take us to Songkla for 700B at 14:00 that day.
7 Aug VISIT THALEH NOI
In fact we missed the bus but aimed for one an half hour later but before it came had hired a song thaew and were on the water for 7:30. In contrast to the cross country drive from the west coast this was more like traditional Thailand scenery of rice paddies with reeds being cultivated for the local basket weaving industry.
Thaleh Noi is such a magnificent sight from a hired manned boat in winter, for us one of Thailand's very best experiences, water flowers and a huge variety of water birds.
But it was desperately disappointing now with perhaps only 1% of the birds but we did see water buffalo which delighted the children. There were still plenty of pink water lilies and some white lotus blossom, Rachel showed me the blue tinge on their petals and the very distinctive stamens.
 |
| Anne-Marie, Rachel, Hazel, Alice Jim, Brian and Joan at Thaleh Noi |
 |
| Water Buffaloes at Thaleh Noi |
 |
| THALEH NOI VILLAGE? |
TRANSFER by MINIBUS to SONGKLA also 7 Aug
Back at the hotel we all showered in the room we had been able to keep for our baggage. Two hour minibus ride to the Lake Inn Songkla where Joan showered again then went on a recki to locate the Post Office and the restaurant Raan Acchaan Tae. Also talked to the owner of the Amsterdam GH who was most helpful told us we could swim at BP's Samila Hotel, gave us a local news letter and suggested tomorrow's visits, she let rooms for 200B with shared bathroom.
When we got back the others were waiting so we went directly back to the restaurant for a truly excellent Chinese meal, lots of Koa Kapong (bass) in sweet and sour sauce, separate fried pieces, spicy seafood salad, chicken and cashew, stewed duck, tom Yang Kung all for 880B
8 Aug Meet up with SAO
Joan and I went to the Post Office for 8 pm in time to see workers arriving, but did not recognise Sao amongst them. While we waited I anxiously rehearsed my Thai, for it was important to be understood. We were amongst the first bunch of customers and had chosen the empty central desk. I would like to contact Sao who Nok had told me was working here, 'Khootoot, Khun ruuccak khun Sao, chun Wannaluk. Terpen Nok seuk sa', she did not know her but made left to make enquiries and in a few minutes she was back smiling to confirm Sao did work as a new intake in the back office. Soon after Sao, who speaks not a word of English, joined us at the desk nervously 'Khun ruucaak phom nay'?
Whereupon both our my reliefs the desk attendant, who I now know as Ooy offered to translate for us.
 |
| SAO and OOY in SONGKLA |
Before leaving the PO we went to the third floor for a good view of the boats courtesy of a manager who had kindly waved us into an office giving us access to the elevator.
 |
| Our party, Ooy, friend and Sao on 3rd Floor of Post Office |
Back at the hotel as requested they had ordered a song thaew to take us to Kao Seng and Ko Yoh, the island we first met Sao after being invited into her parent's house on simply passing on the street. We sent her a Christmas card which she showed to her friend Nok who replied in English and we have kept email contact with annually at least with Nok ever since.
At Kao Song village we saw boats, far less exceptional than those we expected to revisit from Pattini, but with a very warm welcome from the villagers who as usual made a special fuss of the children.
 |
| KAO SONG village and boats |
 |
| JOE at play with KAO SONG villagers
Then to Ko Yoh to a textile factory not far from Sao's parents house.
|
 |
KO YOH textile mill
 |
 |
| KO YOH BUDDHA |
 |
| KO YOH Friendly MONK |
At dinner at the farang (foreigners) restaurant chosen by Ooy was called Parl Ang Bar where they also offered excellent Thai food notably dry crab curry, spicy mango salad under Cotton fish, sweet and sour chicken and cashew, a coconut each by way of starter.
We learned that the girl students were taking a degree in Management and since they already had diplomas expected to get a BA in three years of Saturday only lessons. They were only at the PO for two months of work experience. Ooy was certain they would get jobs once they had degrees somewhere, if not the PO, depending on vacancies. Ooy was already a graduate with children of two and eight would like to go to Europe, especially France. Sao wanted to know how I found her and so I explained Nok's guidance.
The restaurant was obviously for farangs, the English lady who we had met at the Samila pool with her children was there with her husband and family, as was an old American Oil Rig Man who was now an on-shore manager. Clearly this was a restaurant aimed at foreign workers, not tourists. We left at 18:45 because it was nearly dark having really enjoyed the evening.
9 Aug Transfer by shared minibus to PATTANI
We were allocated seven seats for our party of nine and picked up a further two people on the outskirts of town.
 |
| PATTANI from BRIDGE |
Then a visit to the modern mosque and gardens built in the 1960's.
 |
| MATSAYIT KLANG MOSQUE in PATTANI |
 |
| HAT TALO KAPO |
 |
| HAT TALO KAPO |
 |
| FISHERMEN at HAT YALO KAPO |
We lunched at one of the cafes along the beach on Tom Yang Kung and Khaaw Pat Kung. All the children of a Thai family went swimming in the sea fully clothed and wearing goggles. Anne Marie would have enjoyed a swim but didn't think she should change into a swimming costume.
 |
| Judy an Anne-Marie look on whilst Our Children and Thais Bathe |
 |
| JUDY walking along beach at HAT TALO KAPO |
The restaurant had a menu for the first time solely in Thai script but asked the waiter to read it out and managed to recognise some of the usuals Tom Yam Kung of course, Yam Thaleh (spicy sea food salad) Kai ma-muang (chicken and cashew).
10/11 Aug MEET UP WITH NOK in PATTANI
There was a note from Nok when we returned to the hotel that night, next morning she telephoned again as we were having breakfast and said she would come around at 9:30am. Breakfast had been American in style, fruit juice, two fried eggs - very tasty as usual, a small sausage, toast jam coffee/tea.
This was the first time we had met Nok face to face although we had frequently communicated by email, mainly as a go between with her school friend Sao who didn't know English. First impressions included surprise to find Nok petite, very friendly and very much at home with the children. When she arrived the kids were playing with a small animal between a squirrel and a hamster, a Kha Tae, which the porter kept on a gold chain in his desk drawer.
Nok hired a song thaew for the duration and first took us shopping for Batik at Thanon Rudee and the market but it was not too successful though just one shop had an attractive range of ready made shirts but they were too small for Jimmy and me.
First visit was to the mosque Matsayih Kreu-Se (dating from 1578), for we were now into the SE coastal region of Thailand which was predominately Muslim rather than Buddhist, and just north of the border with Malaya.
Nok showed the kids how to shake to find their lucky number and Nok read the associated paper note. For instance 'Joe would be successful in business' another 'Happy if they did it right'. She encouraged them to bang each of three overhead drums, bought them bundles of tapers to light then stick into three decorated bowls full of soil whilst making a wish which they were to tell no-one but if it became true meant they would return to this shrine.
 |
| Matsayih Kreu-Se |
 | |||
| Alice, Nok and Rachel lighting candles at Matsayih Kreu-Se |
 |
| San Jao Leng Ju Kieng |
 |
| San Jao Leng Ju Kieng |
 |
| Pattani Play Park, Hazel, Judy, Joe, Alice and Rachel |
 |
| JOAN, NOK and ANNE_MARIE |
 |
| TUNNELING JOE |
On return to the hotel we paid the driver 400B and the hotel bill at 550B for not particularly effective air con rooms, beds too hard for Joan but everyone else was OK. Judy went with Nok to buy naam prik plaw paste which Nok described as an essential ingredient of Tom Yam Kung plus a sachet with recipe in English.
The minibus I had ordered to take us north to the major southern city of Hat Yai came at 2:30pm. So we said our goodbyes and thanks to Nok who had made our visit to Pattani so special. There was more road development and that from Songkla east to Hat Yai will soon be a dual carriageway.
The journey took just under two hours and then we set about finding the train. The only way to find the platform number is to ask at the Enquiry Desk or listen to the announcement of arrivals in Thai and English since it was not displayed anywhere. Confusingly on getting to our train 38 listed for platform 3 we found coaches 12-17 without sign of an engine or our coach 7. They were added to the train proper after its arrival, mystery solved once we realised coach 7 was part of the incoming train. We found our seats OK and soon re-organised so the kids could sit together. for the overnight journey back to Bangkok.
To begin with I sat opposite a pretty girl Auy and her Pekingese dog Lulu. She was service receptionist at a Mercedes Benz dealer on her may to spend four days with her mother in Bangkok. She lived with her father in Hat Yai and had no boyfriend phuan pluu chaay. She later moved to her correct seat but kept friends with the children.
 |
| OVERNIGHT TRAIN HAT YAI to BANGKOK |
By 7 pm no one had been round to enquire about food so Jim and I set off to look for a restaurant car, a small kitchen/restaurant car with a few tables, and the waiter came back to our carriage to take the order a reasonable meal about 100B per plate. In contrast to the journey South everyone slept soundly, our holiday must be doing us good!
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